A Flavorful Filipino Staple Amidst the 'War on Drugs'
While the Philippines grapples with remnants of its deadly 'war on drugs,' I look at the small pleasure of food and the savory Tortang Talong eggplant omelet.
In the early 90s, I was just a pre-teen living my best life in Baltimore County, Maryland. Even though my nuclear family wasn't smack dab in the city, I still savored blue crab boils and backyard dance-offs with my cousins to B’more Club blasting on 92Q. This, too, was an era for Baltimore that witnessed the height of the so-called war on drugs, which mercilessly devastated Black, Latin, Indigenous, and poor white communities through the traumatic use of heavy-handed law enforcement tactics. This flavor of U.S. law enforcement was tearing families apart and leaving scars that, for many, still haven't healed.
Decades later, the Philippine’s harrowing "war on drugs," led by President Rodrigo Duterte from June 30, 2016 - June 30, 2022, has resulted in the deaths of over 12,000 Filipinos (with some saying anywhere up to 30,000). In its eerie echo of U.S. policy of yesteryear, it went a step further: death on site. These killings disproportionately impact working-class and poor communities—the very same communities that turn to the informal economy of drugs for survival and solace. During his presidency, as many as hundreds of people were slain daily. Sons, daughters, brothers, fathers, and mothers are being killed in their homes and on the streets. Most often, a suspect can be gunned down by police on mere suspicion of drug involvement. Prosecution for these murders is rare, as most are executed without due process for as little as marijuana suspicion, use, or sale. Those lucky enough to make it to prison remain there, away from family contact or legal representation.
These campaigns utilize aggressive extrajudicial killings, destructive home raids, and the cultural demonizing of underground recreational drug use compared to those of pharmaceutical companies. In his own words, Duarte openly endorsed the use of lethal force against suspected drug offenders, leading to thousands of unlawful killings by police and vigilante groups.
While there has been a notable decrease in killings since President Ferdinand Marcos Jr. assumed office in 2022, incidents of violence persist. As I see it, even fewer deaths are too many deaths.
Similarly, in the United States, the war on drugs has been characterized by aggressive policing strategies such as stop-and-frisk policies, SWAT team raids, and mandatory minimum sentences, which, as we know, targeted Black and Brown communities and perpetuated a cycle of incarceration. The documentary “Power” by Yancy Ford illustrated this perfectly in addition to its historical ties to the original sin—slavery.
Both countries have contributed to the stigmatization and criminalization of drug users and individuals associated with the drug trade. In the Philippines, those suspected of involvement in drug-related activities are often demonized and dehumanized, leading to a culture of fear and impunity. In Black, Latin, Indigenous and AAPI communities in the United States, individuals struggling with substance abuse issues are still often criminalized by their families rather than provided with access to treatment and support services.
The World Studies Center, a small team located in the basement of the College of Social Sciences and Philosophy at the University of the Philippines, is doing meticulous research and recording the killings using media reports, camera footage, and police reports to take count for families and the record. Many of these deaths go unreported, making their work even more critical.
While most harm reduction spaces were closed down and deemed pro-illegal drug use, there are some rehabilitation clinics doing the hard work of assisting people who are desperately looking for substance abuse support.
During the Los Angeles uprising following the acquittal of the police officers involved in the beating of Rodney King, the Asian American and Pacific Islander (AAPI) and Black communities in the US faced shared challenges. Both participated in the protests and demonstrations against police brutality and systemic racism. They marched together, demanding justice for Rodney King and an end to police violence.
The uprising was an opportunity for dialogue and bridge-building between the two communities and fostered discussions about shared experiences of discrimination, racism, and economic marginalization. Many groups worked together to address systemic issues and advocate for social justice reforms. The uprising also sparked cultural exchange and solidarity between the AAPI and Black communities. It led to increased awareness and understanding of each other's histories, struggles, and contributions to American society. And while all of that work was done, it often feels like a dissonance between our two groups still needs extensive healing.
The reality is that Asian and Black communities have a very long history of shared pain but also shared solidarity. Throughout history, the system and oppressors have sought to pit underserved, forgotten communities against each other while reaping profits from pain.
It’s why I wanted to write this (albeit long-ass investigative-style article) and recipe: I wanted to find a small way to pay tribute and love to my AAPI family. We are all connected through our suffering under colonial rule, our resistance, our stories, our food, and hell, even our vices.
Why my brain goes directly to food during deeply painful topics can only be explained as a defense and healing mechanism. The fact is that we all need food—we need nourishment to survive, even if the chance of survival is bleak.
Tortang (omlette) Talong (eggplant) is a juicy omelet dish famed for being simple, flavorful and filling. Anyone can make it with a few eggs, a few eggplants and rice. It's accessible and hearty. The creamy eggplant with a crispy egg coat is satisfying as is, but it is traditionally made with pork stuffed into the eggplant. However, this recipe is vegetarian.
Ingredients:
2 large eggplants
3 eggs
1 tbsp garlic, minced (4 cloves)
1 tbsp onion, minced (1/4 small onion)
1 tbsp ginger, minced (1’ inch piece)
coconut or vegetable oil for frying
Optional: chopped spring onions, red chile and or cilantro for garnish
Optional: 5mg of infused oil of choice
What to do:
Wash the eggplants and pat them dry. Using a fork, prick air holes all over them.
Lightly oil a pan or skillet over medium heat.
Place the whole eggplant(s) on the pan and sear, turning occasionally, until the skin is charred and the flesh is soft. Roughly 10-15 minutes.
Once cooked, remove the eggplants from the pan and let them cool slightly.
Leaving the stems intact, peel off the charred skin from the eggplants. Flatten with a fork, being careful not to break the eggplant flesh.
Beat the eggs, garlic, onion, ginger, salt, and pepper in a bowl.
Heat about 2 tablespoons of oil in the same pan you used to char skins.
Dip each flattened eggplant in the beaten eggs, ensuring they are well coated.
Cook one eggplant at a time: Carefully place the egg-coated eggplant in the pan and cook until golden brown on both sides, about 3-5 minutes per side. Add more oil and fry for additional time if you prefer your eggs on the crisper side.
Once cooked, transfer the Tortang Talong to a serving plate.
Serve hot with rice, lime, banana ketchup and enjoy! (I ate my leftovers with jollof rice and it was fire)
I've followed this recipe twice and got better the second time, this is about to be a recipe I carry with me for a long time. Thank you!
I love that you started this newsletter and shared this recipe! It’s one of my favorite Filipino dishes bc we rarely do vegetarian, but this one is so special to me.
I appreciate the intersectionality in which you write. Bringing awareness to a dark history and existing reality, but finding a way to infuse the joy and the universal connectivity of food. I can’t help but think a good conversation over a recipe like this could bring some necessary dialogue to the forefront, awareness with every savory bite seems worth it to me !!! Love it Menn, can’t wait to learn more xx